Sunday, January 4, 2015

Day 8 on the Dawn Wall

Tommy texted me yesterday evening that he had sent pitch 15 after his warm up and Kevin was still working on it.  He said that the fingers Kevin has had to climb with taped are making 15 more difficult for him, but that he is looking really good on it otherwise.  As of midnight last night I got a text that Tommy worked out the moves on 16 a bit, but didn't send, and Kevin still needs to do 15.  I didn't talk to Tommy on the phone as they were giving battle until pretty late, but I assume the plan for today will be for Kevin to take down 15 and Tommy to take down 16.  Pitch 16 is the infamous dyno pitch and the last hard 5.14 pitch of the route.  Tommy hucked himself over and over again on the dyno and on our dyno simulator wall that he built on the back of our shed leading up to the push, but it just wasn't coming together despite all of his efforts.  He's found a 5.14a variation loop around the dyno that climbs back into pitch 15 for a little bit and then climbs down and over into a corner and up to a no hands stance just above the dyno.

Being up on the wall for over a week and the hard climbing Tommy and Kevin have done up until now adds an element of difficulty on top of the hard climbing they have to do.  Imagine performing your very best after not walking for 1 week.  I know Tommy has made an effort to try and do stretching/push ups/yoga in the portaledge hoping this might combat the unusual circumstances of living like veal between their climbing.  

So let's hope for big things today.  This climb definitely won't be over until it's over, but I believe it's possible.  Let's go boys!!!        

Brett Lowell killing it with the shot on pitch 15.  

19 comments:

  1. Really hit home when you wrote, and I never realized: "Imagine performing your very best after not walking for 1 week." Nice job Tommy and Kevin!!

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  2. Saw the boys on my NatGeo Instagram. So neat! I read all the way back on your blog to see what you've been up to and it's fascinating. Congrats on all your successes! ~Natalie (Barnes - Nick's sister, Litchfield) Olson

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